Waynesboro, Charlottesville, and Dead Presidents 20 July 2014

From the Northern Neck, we headed east to Waynesboro, Virginia.  We stayed in one of the rare RV parks where we had good shade, and a clear path for satellite TV reception.  Getting level required putting the front tires in a hole, but that is RV parks on the East Coast.  Most were developed long before big rigs, like ours.

Waynesboro is located in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley  When Penny's parents moved from this area to Illinois, she cried.  It took her nine years to appreciate the beauty of the prairie.  The town has a rich history of its own.  Named after General "Mad Anthony" Wayne, hero of the Revolutionary War, it sits near Jarman's Gap, the major passage through the Blue Ridge Mountains.  It was also the site of General Phillip Sheridan's triumph over General Jubal Early late in the Civil War, effectively closing the Shenandoah Valley as a supply source for the Confederacy.  Still, it was not the main reason for our stop here.  

The history of this area is some of the richest in the Nation.  One of the important places nearby is James Madison's Montpelier, seen here. 

 Madison's brilliance was reflected nowhere better than his pivotal work in drafting the Constitution of the United States.  This bronze depicts Madison with his celebrated wife, Dolley, a distant relative of Penny's.  Alexander Randolph, Madison's opponent, often said that had he run against Madison alone, he may well have won the election of 1808, but he had to run against not only James, but also the beloved and admired Dolley.

This is the view from the front porch of Montpelier.  The racetrack in the background had a working gate indicating that races are still run there. 

In the center here is our interpreter, Pat Dietch.  She made the Madisons and their guests come alive.  Barbara W. and Dixie Cassell were running a cooking demonstration using the resources and techniques of the time on the spot where the Madison kitchen once stood.  The cookies they baked were delicious.

Montpelier, not far from Charlottesville, is the home of the University of Virginia.  Laid out by Thomas Jefferson, this is one of the most stately campuses we've ever seen.  The UVA rotunda exhibits the strong Jeffersonian architectural influence that marks much of this campus.  It is considered by many the University's signature building.

Also, not far from Waynesboro is Staunton (pronounced "Stanton"), Virginia, birthplace of, perhaps one of the most famous dyslexics, President Woodrow Wilson.  He was born in this house on December 28, 1856, nine years before the end of slavery.  His father, a Presbyterian minister, relocated the family to Augusta, Georgia two years later.  The Woodrow Wilson Library is a couple of doors away. 

A few years ago, we posted a blog of our trip to Monticello.  Unfortunately, we left Monticello too late in the day to visit President James Monroe's Ash-Lawn Highland estate, seen here, so determined to see it on this trip.  Poor Monroe was nowhere nearly as affluent as any of his predecessors.  The white painted portion of this house is the portion that existed during Monroe's tenure here.  It faces Jefferson's once adjoining estate, Monticello.  We thought the contrast between this estate and His monument in Hollywood Cemetary seen in our earlier blog, was quite interesting.

By all accounts a very bright and accomplished man, he still suffered by comparison to the brilliance of his immediate predecessors, Jefferson and Madison. Who wouldn't?  He was a doer, not a writer, so there is much unknown about him.  One of his accomplishments, near and dear to our hearts, is his commissioning of the first federal interstate highway (think the wider definition of "interstate"). This is a cast of one of the mileage markers on that road.

The guides at each presidential home have made our understanding of our history much richer and more alive than anything we learned in school or read on our own.  These visits are well worth the time and effort.  

There is so much history here, we still missed a lot.  I suppose we'll just have to come this way again.  All together now, "AWW".



Northern Neck of Virginia, 14 July 2014

 From Richmond, we moved to the historic Northern Neck.  It is the northernmost Virginia peninsula jutting into the Chesapeake Bay.  It is bounded by the Potomac River to the north and the Rappahannock to the south.  Our home for this week was Grey's Point RV Resort on the Rappahannock, a pivotal waterway during the two hundred years of our country's existence.  The Battle of Rappahannock during the War of 1812 was fought not far from here. 

Not far across the Rappahannock was the Lancaster Tavern, established in 1790.  It is a cute B & B.  It also had excellent food. 

 The primary purpose of our visit was Penny's genealogical research.  This is the grave of her 7 times Great Grandmother near Lancaster, Virginia.

 It is situated adjacent to the Yeocomico Episcopal Church.  First established in 1655, the original structure was replaced in 1705 by this structure made from bricks fired in a kiln just to the left of this photo.  The famous author and illustrator, John Dos Pasos, is also buried here.

 Constructed in 1669, St. Mary's White Chapel is the final resting place of many members of Mary Ball Washington's (mother of George) family, the diplomat George Steuart (spelled correctly), and actress Margaret Sullivan.

 This magnificent Christ Church of Lancaster Co. was first established in 1670, and reconstructed in 1730.  It still retains the original high back pews and three level pulpit.

 More modest, but no less historic, is Wicomico Parrish Episcopal Church, first established in 1645, a scant 38 years after the establishment of Jamestown.  One of the vestrymen was none other than Richard Henry Lee, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.

 There were also many small cemeteries spread throughout the countryside.  This one, where many of Penny's ancestors are buried was in the middle of a soybean field.  We found it only because we were able to plug the latitude and longitude into our GPS.  The last owner of the family home arranged for this graveyard and the right-of-way to it be retained in perpetuity.  

 This is all that remains of the, once thriving, port of Leedstown, frequented by George Washington. On February 27, 1766, it was the site of the adoption of the Leedstown Resolves, a protest against the Stamp Act and a forerunner of the Declaration of Independence.  The graveyard above isn't far from here.

This is Stratford Hall, Residence of Henry "Light Horse Harry" Lee III, the other Lee who signed the Declaration of Independence.  It was also the birthplace of Robert E. Lee.

Down the hill from this monument was the birthplace of George Washington.  Both he and his mother, Mary Ball Washington were born on the Northern Neck.

As we traveled around the Northern Neck, we couldn't help but wonder how many of our founding fathers had traveled along the same routes we were traversing. 





Give Me Liberty or Give Me Death, Richmond, Virginia, 6 July 2014

 A few blocks away from downtown Richmond is the St. John's Episcopal Church.  Picturesque to be sure, but otherwise not notable for this period, except for a couple of events that happened there.

 It is a classic colonial era church with a small pipe organ and a three-level pulpit.  Every Sunday during the summer, after noon services, there is a re-enactment that makes it something else entirely. 

 In late March, 1775, the second Virginia Convention was held in this church.  There was nothing particularly ecumenical about this choice of meeting places.  It was simply the only place in Richmond that could hold the delegates in attendance.  It was here that Patrick Henry gave his famous "Give me liberty or give me death" speech in support of his motion to raise a Virginia militia.  This gentleman gave an excellent portrayal of that moment.  If you wish to see the full text, it is available here.

 These gentlemen portrayed Peyton Randolph (red jacket), who chaired the convention, and Edmund Pendleton.  Pendleton, a moderate, was the most eloquent spokesman in opposition to Henry's motion.  No one, however, was in the same league with Henry.  Afterward, Pendleton worked ardently in support of the revolution, instructing his delegate, Richard Henry Lee, to propose a resolution that later became the Declaration of Independence. 

 "Thomas Jefferson" and "Thomas Nelson" relax after the session.  Both rose in support of Henry's resolution. Nelson electrified the convention by declaring that should the British attempt to advance on his land, he would "await no order, nor obey any order to refrain" from attacking.  

 "George Washington" was also in attendance at this convention.  He rose in support of Henry's resolution and made himself available to lead the militia.

These two young ladies speak with "Richard Henry Lee" one of the only brothers (the other was Francis L, "Lighthorse Harry", Lee) who signed the Declaration of Independence.  We loved the stars and stripes ribbons they wore in their hair, but wonder at what the founders would have thought of their " summer wear".

 As with many of the churches of this era, there is an associated graveyard.  One of those interred here was Samuel Wythe, one of the signers of the Declaration of Independence.  Another was Elizabeth Arnold Poe, mother of  Edgar Allen Poe.  Thespians were not held in high regard at the time, so she was buried as far from the church as possible.

 One of those buried here was Charlie, the Church Cat.  It seems that his mistress had to move to England and could not take Charlie with her.  Since Charlie hung out most of the time in the church yard, she left a grant to take care of Charlie.  There probably aren't too many churches that have a line item in the budget for maintenance of the church cat.

By the way, in case you are wondering, the second thing that happened here was that a British expedition, under the command of the, by this time British, General Benedict Arnold, used this Church as their headquarters until their withdrawal after a few days occupation. 



Richmond, VA July 5, 2014

 Ted and Penny spent much of their time in Richmond here at the Library of Virginia.  The genealogy section was fabulous.  Many documents that are unavailable anywhere else may be easily seen here.  Both Ted and Penny made a great deal of progress in their hunt for hidden ancestors. Penny got to read the original will of one of her 8th great grandfathers,who died in 1670.  It even had the original wax seal.

 Designed by Thomas Jefferson, the beautiful Virginia State Capitol is only a few blocks away.

 This is the Confederate White House, home of Confederate President Jefferson Davis.  Sadly, his son Joseph died at five years of age due to injuries suffered in a fall from a second story window here. This stately home has a gorgeous garden, but is surrounded by taller buildings of a multi-block hospital.  

The Tredegar iron works was one of the companies that made Richmond an industrial powerhouse prior to the Civil War.  This was the pattern building of the old iron works, now converted into a visitor center for the Richmond National Battlefield.

 Using powerful water turbines such as this one,

and conventional water wheels like this, the company used the energy from the many creeks flowing into the James River in this area. to make steel and iron items such as railroad rails. steel sheeting, and many other products prior to the war.

 Despite suffering serious damage from an 1863 fire that devastated the Crenshaw Woolen Mills next door, the iron works was quickly reconstructed and continued to supply iron and steel goods for the Confederacy, producing 40 percent of the heavy ordinance, and a great deal of steel plating for Confederate ironclads.  The CSS Virginia, better known a the USS Merrimac was covered with iron sheeting produced here.  The charred wooden window frame in this remaining wall attests to the fire.  After the conclusion of the war, the iron works continued to run for many more years.  It produced ordinance and heavy ammunition during WWI and WWII.

 This statue, commemorating Abraham Lincoln's April 4, 1865 visit to Richmond with is son Tad was placed in 2003 amidst considerable controversy.  Many felt that this was a monument to the bloodthirsty tyrant who had been bent on destroying the South.    

 If you're looking for a little shopping, something to eat or drink, or a good party, then Carytown, not far from downtown, is the place for you.  It reminded us a great deal of Hawthorne Street in Portland.

 We chose to eat in the highly rated Opa, Opa Greek Restaurant.  Not much to look at, but the food was delicious.  Perhaps the best tzatziki and feta we had ever eaten.  The feta was made from sheep milk, not goat.  The owner told us that Costco carries it.  Another memorable meal.

Petersburg, Virginia 2 July 2014

 Petersburg, Virginia is an interesting town.  It is working very hard to restore its old town area, and, although it's a work in progress, it appears quite promising.

 The story of what happened at Petersburg, however, is hinted at here.  The round plaque indicates that the building was struck by Union Artillery at some time during the Richmond-Petersburg Campaign.

 Our first battlefield stop was at the visitor center.  Here, a display featuring wagon parts, a piece of a Union jacket, and other items helped depict the disarray of the battlefield.

 Arrayed around the sidewalk leading to the center were several pieces of ordinance that came into use during the campaign and the nine-month siege that was a brutal, but integral part of it.

Down a short trail from the visitor's center is this reproduction of The Dictator, a 13 inch mortar.  It could hurl a 214 pound explosive shell nearly a mile up and over Confederate defensive emplacements.  Although the specifications were forbidding, it was only marginally effective, at least partly due to its weight, which mandated that it could only be moved by rail car, so was limited to sites within less than a mile of a railroad. 

Ted appreciated that this redoubt and abates were kept free of vegetation, much as they would have appeared during the campaign.  Union forces made an initial breakthrough of the Confederate lines in this area, and but for the General William F. (Baldy) Smith's hesitation to follow up, could have possibly ended the campaign then and there. 

This campaign was very personal for Penny's family.  This is the Dinwiddie Courthouse.  A battle fought here took the life of one of Penny's distant cousins.

Difficult to see here, and in person for that matter, is what remains of The Crater.  Union forces dug a tunnel beneath Confederate lines and placed a large explosive charge in an effort to open a gap through which they could advance.  In anticipation of such a move, Confederate commanders, out of sight of the Union forces, constructed a second set of trenches behind the forward line.  When the explosives were set off, a huge crater was created, and Union forces poured into it, only to be fired down upon by Confederates behind the second line.  Another of Penny's distant cousins, Captain Henry A. Chambers, was present at the battle and wrote poignantly about the slaughter that ensued.

This field was where the battle, siege, and indeed, the Confederacy ended.  Here, cavalry under the command of General George Armstrong Custer finally managed to turn Lee's right flank, and rout Confederate forces.  Another of Penny's distant cousins, Brigadier General Eppa Hunton, was captured by Custer's forces.  The surrender at Appomattox was a scant seven days later.   All of Penny's cousins, mentioned here, fought for the Confederacy.  She had others who fought for the union.  

Richmond, VA, Hollywood Cemetery, 25 June 2014

This small chapel sits near the entrance to Hollywood Cemetery and is now the office. 

 It is situated among beautiful, rolling hills above Richmond, Virginia-

with views of the James River along its southeastern border.

It is the final resting place of the first and only Confederate President, Jefferson Davis.  The angel to his right marks the grave of his second wife, Varina

Also buried here are President James Monroe,

and President John Tyler.  Tyler died less than three months before the first shots were fired on Fort Sumter, signaling the beginning of the Civil War.

Across the road from the Circle of Presidents are the graves of some of Penny's distant cousins.  The tall monument to the right rear is that of Eppa Hunton.   A Confederate Brigadier General, he was present at the Battles of Manassas (Bull Run) and Sharpsburg (Antietam) among others, and was captured by General George Armstrong Custer at the Battle of Five Forks.

Hollywood is a public cemetery with lots and crypts still available.  The grave of this child with the sculpture of her faithful dog watching over her is one of the most visited.

Many, if not most, of the graves in this cemetery are of Confederate dead.  This is the Confederate soldiers' monument.  Completed in 1869, it is 90 feet tall, a few feet shorter than the reach of the crane used in its construction.  The workers were unable to place the capstone until a sailor who was serving a sentence in a local penitentiary volunteered to climb the monument and hoist the stone.  For his efforts, the remainder of his sentence was forgiven. 

This monument marks the grave of the flamboyant Confederate Cavalry leader J.E.B. Stuart.  He was mortally wounded in the Battle of Yellow Tavern near here.  The bough to the left of the monument belongs to one of the many large, lovely holly trees that gave this place its name.

This is the memorial to George E. Pickett, leader of the infamous Gettysburg event known as Pickett's Charge.  Asked after the war why the charge had failed so disastrously, his usual reply was, "I've always thought the Yankees had something to do with it."

Many, many more of the stones mark graves similar to that of the unfortunate Arkansas Private William Morgan who died less than two months after the onset of the war.