Saturday, June 13, 2009

Twickenham, London, England 6-12-09

This hotel is a great place to end our stay in Great Britain. It has been open only two months. The hotel wraps around one side of the new national rugby stadium. The top floor has 6 suites that look onto the field. Our room is large, luxurious and looks toward the town, not the stadium. After staying in hotels that were not Marriotts, we REALLY appreciate the standards of our daughter's employer. Thanks Erin for setting us so well.
This is the hotel and stadium from a distance. We met a fella who lives in the neighborhood. He really bad mouthed the stadium and hotel because of the length of time he had to endure the construction. He did go on to give us good recommendations for places to see in the area. I have to say that I am ready to eat food that has flavor and be with people who are more lighthearted. Everyone has been friendly and helpful, just a bit serious.
We walked from the hotel to the Thames River in Twickenham. We turned a corner along the foot path and saw this humorous fountain. Note the nymph about to fall into the water on the left side.
Beyond the hedge row was a pond with the pretty lilypads. Not the colors of Monet, but still a pleasing still-life.
Image King Henry VIII floating by on his elaborate barge on his way to see Anne Boleyn at Hampton Court, which isn't far away.
This is what the edge of the footpath looked like. There were people sitting on benches all along here.
York House is now the town hall and used for receptions and weddings. The central part was build in 1690. The gardens and Thames are right behind it.

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Antrim County, Northern Ireland 6-10-09

Today we took a bus tour through the county just north of Belfast so that we could get a view of the rural side of this country. Here I am next to the real-life size statue of William of Orange, who landed close by and won the Battle of the Boyne that really began the Troubles of Belfast. I am 5' 8". William was a wee short. William is known best in the United States as the William of William and Mary College fame. Many Scots/Irish immigrated to the Appalachian Mountains in the USA and named their sons William or Billy after this successful protestant king. Some believe that the term Hillbilly evolved from the Billys who lived in those hills.
The harbor of Carrickfergus marks the spot where William landed. This town was the home of the parents of President Andrew Jackson.
The castle is a road width from the harbor. Our tour guide used the word, "wee" in almost every sentence. I thought it was a stereotype that Irish people used that term. Carnlough was the next stop. It had a similar harbor to Carrickfergus, but no castle, just a wonderful rope swing hanging from one of the trees. It looked well used.
The tour took us through seven different glens or valleys. These are where the leprechauns live. It is said that when leprechauns drink the potato mash, they need to stay inside the next day. If they don't, they turn into stone yard ornaments. I'll never look at another pixie ornament the same way again.
There is a rope bridge between the first notch on the right. It was originally built by fishermen so that they could access the best fishing spot at the end on the rocky path.
Now this ruin of Dunluce Castle was something to see. The foundations hug the contours of the rock. How did medieval builders manage to construct this? It must look amazing in the mist.
The tour stopped at the Bushmill's Distillery. It has been in operation since 1608. We were impressed with how small it was.
The last stop was the primary motivation for this trip - the Giant's Causeway. Legend says that these are Finn McCool's stepping stones to Scotland. Finn is a Paul Bunyanesque figure in Irish mythology. This rock formation was caused by the rapid cooling of volcanic basalt in a process similar to the one that caused the striations in Devil's Tower, Wyoming. The black portions are where water hits or flows regularly. Tourists are warned to stay off of those. It looks like people read signs here as well as the do at home.
I am standing in a narrow passage between beaches of these stones. This gives you some perspective on the size.
This is a British National Heritage Site. We were surprised that people are allowed to climb all of over the stones.
This landslide was enormous and had to have happened recently because the exposed dirt was uniformly wet. These also appear to happen frequently. You can see another smaller slide above and to the left of this one. The only rain had been sprinkles.
This formation is called the organ pipes and is what is seen when you walk through the narrow passage from one beach to the other. Those are people on a path right below the formation.
The concession for Giant's Causeway sits on a hill that is about 3/4 of a mile above the formations. This is the view inland from the shops. It costs nothing to see this wonder of nature.
Looking west from the concession area is a view that reminded us of the Olympic Peninsula in Washington.
The tour bus driver let us off just blocks from our hotel. We stopped at Scalini's Restaurant for dinner. It was delicious and the host was warm and welcoming. He came to our table and we had a nice talk about the time he lived in Boston.
We had passed this hotel several times. I finally decided that I wanted a photo of this statue escaping through the wall. I don't know the meaning, but thought it was funny, especially on a very elegant looking building. This neighborhood serves the students of Queen's University, maybe the statue has some significance related to that.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Belfast, Ireland 6-9-09

We took a hop-on and hop-off bus tour of Belfast. It gave us an excellent overview. This is Stormont where the Northern Ireland Parliament meets. The grounds upon which it sits are as beautiful as the building.

Campbell College is the Irish equivalent of Eton. Nobel Laureate Samuel Becket taught here. When he left, the headmaster tried to dissuade him by telling him that he had the opportunity to mold the lives of the cream of Ulster youth. Becket replied, "Yes, the cream, rich and thick". C.S. Lewis was a student here. There is a lamp post in the forest-like campus, that is believed to be the inspiration for the guide to the wardrobe for the children in the book The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe.
The two huge cranes, 'Sampson' and 'Goliath' are from Belfast's shipbuilding legacy. They are no longer in use, but will be preserved. In the background, you can see parts for wind-powered generators.
Since the end of "The Troubles", there has been a building boom in Belfast as illustrated by all the cranes and new buildings you see here.
There are many artworks along the waterfront that have been put there since the peace. This one supposed to be a female figure holding a globe. It is know by the locals as "The Thing with the Ring".
The lean you see here on the Albert Clock is not a photographic artifact. The memorial to Queen Victoria's husband was built over an underground river, and one side has been seriously undermined.
This intersection marks the beginning of the section of Belfast where the majority of the killings took place during the height the sectarian/political violence.
This is the Crumlin Road Courthouse. Many militants were tried here.
Lady Justice is atop the Crumlin Road Courthouse. Note that she is missing her balance. It was stolen and sold on eBay.
The gaol across Crumlin Road from the courthouse was where many of the militants were jailed. It is no longer in use. Tours are run every weekend.
This house was destroyed in a bombing.
This inflammatory mural in the protestant/loyalist section of Belfast has become such a tourist attraction that it will not be destroyed. Note the flagpole projecting from the black section of the mural holding the Union Jack. A quick look at the flags is one way to tell which neighborhood you are in - Catholic/Nationalist or Protestant/Loyalist.
Note the hand in the middle of the emblem to the right in this photo. The red hand is a symbol of Northern Ireland. Legend says that two rival clans raced to claim a far-away land. The first hand to reach the land would own the place. When it looked like one clan would win, a man in a boat of the group that was behind, cut off his hand and threw it ashore, thus winning the contest for his clan. The hand became a symbol for "the people of Ulster will do whatever it takes to get the job done".The gate separating Republican and Loyalist sections of Belfast is closed every night and kept closed every weekend, even though it has been 12 years since the Troubles.Above the houses you can see a "Peace Wall" separating neighborhoods. There are still very hard feelings and little mixing except in the university neighborhoods. People do not want the wall to come down, but there is hope that it will disappear over the next two generations.
The themes of these murals in the Catholic/Nationalist neighborhood are mostly revolutionary in nature celebrating everything from Che Guevara to solidarity between the IRA and the Palestinians.
This is a mural of Bobby Sands, an IRA martyr who went on a hunger strike while in jail. He was elected to the Northern Ireland Parliament as a representative of Sein Fein, but died of hunger two days later.
The Belfast Eye is patterned after the London Eye. All of the capsules, but one, costs about ten dollars. The single exception costs about one hundred dollars, is quite luxurious, and comes with a bottle of champagne. It is the site of many proposals.
No one would have dared build anything, let along a shopping center with this much glass, during "The Troubles".
The drydock where the Titanic received her final fitting will soon become part of a museum complex. There is a perverse sort of pride taken in the fact that the Titanic was built in Belfast. The locals will, however, tell you that "She was just fine when she left here".
The pumphouse that pumped out the drydock is already open for tours on a limited basis.
This is the poorhouse where many families displaced by the Irish Potato Famine came.
We liked the Britishism of "Agreed" rather than "Sold" on the property listing sign.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Dublin to Belfast, Ireland 6-8-09

Again we missed a lot of the scenery on the train trip between Dublin and Belfast because of the interesting people we met on the train. The photo above and the following three of the Irish Sea and countryside were representative of what we did manage to see.



As we walked through the Belfast Central Train Station, we saw ads on the carpet. What a good idea.

This is a side street near our hotel in Belfast. We are staying in a Holiday Inn Express near Queen's University in South Belfast. There is no way this hotel is anywhere near the any of the Marriotts that we have stayed in. We walked about five blocks to a street full of ethnic restaurants and shops that seem to serve the local college students. We felt like we were in the Hollywood District of Portland, Oregon.