Tuesday, December 15, 2009

The Big Easy

Two years ago, we came through New Orleans on our way out of Texas. Despite the fact that we had both been there before, separately, several times, we had a ball rediscovering it together. We had so much fun that time, there was no way we were going to drive past without stopping for a few days.
While there was some construction beginning in the lower ninth ward, much remained to be done as witnessed by this sign near our very upscale campground.
New Orleans, however, has always prided itself on its touch of whimsy never far from the surface.
Despite the tragedy that visited here a few years ago, the city has retained its sense of humor, even if steeped in irony as this sign indicates. On Sunday morning, we discovered a paper in the restaurant in which we breakfasted, "The New Orleans Levee" (its motto is "We don't hold anything back"). It was packed cover to cover with pointedly humorous articles aimed at just about every facet of New Orleans life and every political leaning. One of the articles was about Katrina the Clown's faux candidacy. One plank of her platform was that she would negotiate with future hurricanes. We believe that every city in the World should be able to make fun of itself the way New Orleans does.
The most recognizable place in New Orleans, perhaps in the entire South, is the Jackson Square, St. Louis Cathedral area.
No visit to New Orleans would be complete unless you left stuffed to the gills. While there are lots of upscale restaurants in the Big Easy, it isn't necessary to spend a lot of money to eat well. This is "Pierre Maspero's". We've eaten here twice in the last few years, and been very pleased with the food, service, and the value both times.
This is "The Coffee Pot Restaurant". It is alleged to have the ugliest chandelier in New Orleans. Here it is, judge for yourself. Breakfast here was, however, a truly memorable experience. Penny had a fabulous, uniquely New Orleans variation on Eggs Benedict, and Ted had a delicious omelet based on Oysters Rockefeller.
We ate at "Coop's" our last evening here. It has a very good jambalaya, but the red beans and rice with tasso were the best. This is their kitchen. In the front window is a cat bed complete with cat. We both wondered how they ever passed a health inspection. Never happen in Portland, OR!
The produce in the French Market is always unique. There were several baskets of sugar cane.
Residents of New Orleans are always ready to party, any time, any place. We thought this fire hydrant table was a really clever idea. Again, I doubt this would be possible in Portland, OR.
They love their Saints here. We had a lot of fun walking past several bars on Sunday while the Saints were playing. With every score, and when the game was over and New Orleans had won a squeaker, each place erupted in cries of "Who dat, who dat, who dat say de gonna beat dem Saints?"
New Orleans is known for its street entertainers. There were good (and some bad) musicians, kids in tap lines, and just about any other act imaginable. We liked this fellow who stood completely motionless as he climbed a ladder to nowhere with a 2x4 on his shoulder.
The Big Easy has always been a city of contrasts. One of them is illustrated in this row of tarot card/palm/aura readers and psychics in front of St Louis Cathedral. Just down the street is a shop specializing in voodoo artifacts.
Many of these street artists were quite talented. Penny and I both commented that we would like to have some of their wares in our home when we decide to go back to living in a house without wheels.
Across downtown from the hurdy-gurdy of the French Quarter lies the elegance of the Garden District illustrated in this house.
Here, New Orleans readies itself for Christmas in its unique style. Arguably, the second most recognizable place in New Orleans, the Jax Brewery is decked with garlands, wreaths, and bows. Not easily visible from this angle, a fleur-de-lis tops the Christmas tree.
Penny and I have decided that when our rich uncle dies (neither of us is aware that we have one), we want a place in New Orleans with a courtyard similar to this one to go with our flat in New York and our cabin in the mountains.

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